A phase-out of a disperse dye used in textile dyeing which was found to contain traces of chlorophenols and chlorobenzenes

Number

406-EN

Section

General Section

Use

Sector

Manufacture of textiles, leather, fur

Function

Other

Process

Other

Product category

Textile dyes, and impregnating poducts

Abstract

Upon testing effluents of a Chinese textile dyeing mill traces of chlorophenols and chlorobenzenes were detected by Primark. In collaboration with the mill and the chemical supplier the source of the contamination was identified and eliminated by substituting the dye agent with an alternative dyeing product.

Substituted substances

Disperse dye based on disperse orange 30

CAS No. 5261-31-4 EC No. 226-070-4 Index No.

Chemical group

Alternative Substances

Azo disperse dyestuff preparation

CAS No. EC No. Index No.

Chemical group

Reliability of information

Evidence of implementation: there is evidence that the solution was implemented and in use at time of publication

Reason substitution

ecotoxicity
other reasons

Hazard Assessment

The substituted product is not listed in the hazardous substance database according to SUBSPORTplus screening criteria (SDSC). However, it can release chlorophenols and chlorobenzenes, which are listed on the SDSC as CMR-substances, endocrine disruptors, carcinogens and sensitisers. The self-classification of the alternative product by the producer resulted in no hazard classification. » Check the Substance Database according to SUBSPORTplus Screening Criteria (SDSC)

Description of Substitution

Primark has a stringent chemical management policy in place which complies fully with, and goes beyond, EU legislation. Beyond this, the company recognises the importance of continuing to evolve its chemical management policy in line with industry best practice and of continuing to minimise the environmental impact of textile manufacturing processes. As a result, Primark has committed to working with industry and other stakeholders to achieve the goal of ‘zero discharge’ of hazardous chemicals within the textile and apparel supply chain by 2020. In line with this, a pilot study was conducted to assess current chemical usage and to identify issues related to chemical management practices in a selected Chinese textile dyeing mill. During the pilot, effluent testing was conducted and traces of chlorophenols and chlorobenzenes were detected. Through discussions with the mill and its chemical supplier, a particular disperse dye, based on CI Disperse Orange 30, was identified as the possible source of these traces. After testing the dye, it was confirmed as the source and the decision was made to find a suitable alternative in order to phase-out the dye. Primark is supporting the mill to ensure the safer alternative is effectively phased in. Chlorophenols and chlorobenzenes have been identified as hazardous substances. As a result, many of these chemicals are subjected to national and supranational legislations (e.g. REACH and the Stockholm Convention) and brand restricted substances list (RSL). The company has identified both chlorophenols and chlorobenzenes as priority chemicals for elimination and these are included within the brand’s RSL. By working together with a consultancy (Sustainable Textile Solutions), a suitable alternative azo disperse dyestuff preparation (Dianix® Yellow Brown S-4R 150%) was identified. This alternative is also approved by Bluesign. The substituted product was used for dyeing polyester and is a common component in many trichromatic shades. The alternative product is a suitable alternative as it offers the same shade. Whilst the alternative is currently available for a slightly higher cost, the new dyestuff enables the mill to be compliant with brand and governmental requirements in relation to chlorophenols and chlorobenzenes. More information about the company’s activities can be found in case stories 405-EN and 407-EN.

Case/substitution evaluation

This case story describes the collaboration of a brand, a textile dyeing mill and its chemical supplier to find a safer alternative dyeing product. It was not possible to perform a full hazard assessment as the full composition of the alternative is unknown to SUBSPORTplus. However, the MSDS is available.

State of implementation

In use

Availability of Alternative

On the market

Producer/Provider

https://www.dystar.com/

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Type of information supplier

User

Contact

https://www.primark.com

Further information

MSDS of the alternative product

Date, reviewed

February 9, 2022